By Cody
Kendall, Star Ledger
Sunday, December 19, 2004
"Water
& Wine is the third restaurant in four years to try its luck
in the building that once housed the long-running Werner's Lake
Edge, but all indications are that the new tenant is here for
the long run."
"Food
is predominantly Italian, produced with flair, while the service
we experienced was attentive and informed."
"The
water in the name refers to the lake, which is pleasant to look
at, but the wine is a bigger drawing card. The selection is
extensive and exciting, particularly the featured choices by the
glass ($7.50 to $14). While we pondered the options, our server
asked if we'd like to try several of the possibilities before
ordering. That was a nice touch and a great help in making
decisions that suited us. She also was able to guide us
expertly, obviously having been well-schooled in the different
offerings."
"Seafood
is a big star here, and there is a raw bar featuring lobster
($15), crab ($12) and shrimp ($11) cocktails among other items,
including oysters of the day at market price. Our craving was
for something a little more complex, however. We got it in the
well-tailored mushrooms stuffed with lump crabmeat ($9), topped
by a stylish Chardonnay sauce. An even better impression was
made by the shrimp and scallop combo ($9.50), in which the
seafood was sautéed with wild mushrooms and asparagus. A touch
of white wine, lemon, roasted garlic and diced plum tomatoes
offered an interesting juxtaposition of flavors that did not
eclipse the main ingredients."
"The
king of the Italian entrees has to be the enormous zuppa di
pesce ($19), an amazing value that involves an overwhelming bowl
of lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, salmon, clams and
calamari, each perfectly cooked. Other favorites among the
Italian offerings are the chicken Milanese ($15) and the penne
with shrimp ($16) in a plum tomato vodka sauce."
"Steaks
and chops are a broad category, going from grilled pork chops
($17.50) made with potatoes, onions and peppers up to a dry-aged
Porterhouse ($31) with sautéed wild mushrooms, and a grilled
center-cut veal chop ($31) over escarole and crowned by
mushrooms."
"Specials
offer the kitchen even more options. Beef short ribs ($28), for
instance, were cooked until fork-tender in a Guinness and Port
reduction, served with a potato pancake that had just a touch of
horseradish to get our attention."
"Desserts
($8), creatively produced by pastry chef Sherri Lepore, went far
beyond cheesecake and creme brulée, though both are available.
Best of all was the turtle tart ($8), a luxurious blend of dark
chocolate, toasted pecans and caramel that was on the same
wavelength as one of my favorite candies."
"The
kid in you will get a kick out of the ice cream sandwich of
vanilla gelato, garnished with whipped cream and snuggled
between chocolate chip cookies studded with peanut butter and
butterscotch morsels."
"Executive
chef John Tocci is known for his work at La Griglia in
Kenilworth, where he is also a principal with his brother,
Chris. They expanded the family restaurant holdings when they
debuted Water & Wine in late summer following a renovation
of the interior. Their experience should give Water & Wine
the staying power it needs to make a restaurant at this location
work for the long term."
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